Starter Kits Geomorphic Maps

[lvet]

Hello,
I just received the Starter Kit #2 (Starter Kit #1 is on its way).
I cannot find a way to lay out the Geomorphic Maps flat as there is that annoying center fold in the middle.

I read that many people are placing a sheet of plexiglass on top while playing, but I don't think this is an optimal solution.
Did anyone try to glue the maps on a rigid piece of cardboard? The idea is to mimic something similar to the maps of the original Squad Leader.
What do you think?

 

[62nd Army]

Hi

If you want to make like the original "hard" boards, them by all means mount then.
Maybe poster board or something firm, yet light.

remember you do lose the "flexibility" of easy storage/travel once this is done.

Good luck and welcome to the ASLSK ride!!

Thanks
Joe

 

[Robin Reeve]

Did you try to fold the map both ways ?
It usually reduces the impact of the crease.
And/or use repositionable tape to fix it on the table?

 

[fenyan]

What Robin said...

Personally, I slice my geo maps in half, right along the crease.

 

[Jazz]

The last thing I would want to do is to make them anything like the original Squad Leader boards.

Plexiglass is far & away the best option. Cutting them in half is another option, but less than desirable IMMHO.

 

[lvet]

Hi @Jazz
What is the disadvantage, for you, of the original Squad Leader boards? Having something similar is my objective

 

[von Marwitz]

Hi @Jazz
What is the disadvantage, for you, of the original Squad Leader boards? Having something similar is my objective

I preferred the old mounted boards as well - in principle.

The SK style boards were printed more precisely and butted together better. However, with more advanced printing methods, the same could have been (and indeed was) achieved with (some) mounted boards. The true reason for the SK style boards to prevail, however, is that they are much cheaper to produce. There were about 50 mounted boards before the advent of the SK-style boards. Since then, something approaching 100 boards in SK-style have been produced by MMP alone.

If you plan to 'mount' SK-style boards yourself, I'd advise to take the following into account:

Many scenarios only use half-boards. If you mount full boards which cannot fold, then you will see configurations where one unused half-board will jut out on each side of the playing area on the table - which is awkward. That's probably the reason, why some people cut their SK-style boards in half (some of which laminate instead of mounting them). Personally, I prefer to print out the playing area via VASL.

Once you start 'mounting' boards, probably, there's no turning back. If one thing sucks for sure, then butting 'mounted' and 'unmounted SK-style' boards together.

If, however, you start mounting boards, it appears to be a sh**load of work to me. Sure, I have spent weeks on clipping my counters and devising a storage solution, so why should I lament about the time burnt by mounting boards... Just sayin', though.

von Marwitz

 

[Jazz]

Hi @Jazz
What is the disadvantage, for you, of the original Squad Leader boards? Having something similar is my objective

Last time I played on the original boards I took the scenario down half way through and re-set it up on paper boards. I preferred the paper boards of the original boards to all the other options (SK included).

Original boards warp, move around way too easily, and the junctions where they join do violence to LOS and the hex grid. Did I mention storing and traveling with them is a pain in the a**?

 

[Actionjick]

The last thing I would want to do is to make them anything like the original Squad Leader boards.

Plexiglass is far & away the best option. Cutting them in half is another option, but less than desirable IMMHO.

We used a large piece of plexiglass for the Red Barricades mapsheets. It worked very well and has the added benefit of protecting the maps from spills, FOBA and blood.

 

[Actionjick]

I preferred the old mounted boards as well - in principle.

The SK style boards were printed more precisely and butted together better. However, with more advanced printing methods, the same could have been (and indeed was) achieved with (some) mounted boards. The true reason for the SK style boards to prevail, however, is that they are much cheaper to produce. There were about 50 mounted boards before the advent of the SK-style boards. Since then, something approaching 100 boards in SK-style have been produced by MMP alone.

If you plan to 'mount' SK-style boards yourself, I'd advise to take the following into account:

Many scenarios only use half-boards. If you mount full boards which cannot fold, then you will see configurations where one unused half-board will jut out on each side of the playing area on the table - which is awkward. That's probably the reason, why some people cut their SK-style boards in half (some of which laminate instead of mounting them). Personally, I prefer to print out the playing area via VASL.

Once you start 'mounting' boards, probably, there's no turning back. If one thing sucks for sure, then butting 'mounted' and 'unmounted SK-style' boards together.

If, however, you start mounting boards, it appears to be a sh**load of work to me. Sure, I have spent weeks on clipping my counters and devising a storage solution, so why should I lament about the time burnt by mounting boards... Just sayin', though.

von Marwitz

SL style boards are much more satisfying to watch being torn in half by a frustrated opponent.

 

[lvet]

If, however, you start mounting boards, it appears to be a sh**load of work to me.

Is there a place where I can download high definition scans of the boards? (Worst case scenario I will scan the maps myself)
I will reprint the boards on a high resolution printer and experiment on different types of supports.

It doesn't look like a lot of work, but I will tell you in few days

 

[Tuomo]

Is there a place where I can download high definition scans of the boards? (Worst case scenario I will scan the maps myself)
I will reprint the boards on a high resolution printer and experiment on different types of supports.

It doesn't look like a lot of work, but I will tell you in few days

THIS MAN HAS WHAT IT TAKES TO PLAY ASL.

 

[Jazz]

Is there a place where I can download high definition scans of the boards? (Worst case scenario I will scan the maps myself)
I will reprint the boards on a high resolution printer and experiment on different types of supports.

It doesn't look like a lot of work, but I will tell you in few days

Having scanned most (all?) of the maps myself, getting the scans is not that big of a deal.

Printing and trimming on the other hand is a royal pain.....

 

[jacobingonzo]

bigger fan of the mounted boards rather than the SK boards- I use plexiglass to cover- My mounted boards, in the main, are coming on for 30 years old now- as they are covered in plexiglass and I avoid strong sunlight when I play the colours are still good. No liquid or food stains. After my first set of charts became fairly rancid after decades of use I now laminate all my game charts- its amazing how much grime and grease transfers from apparently clean fingers. The boards are stored stacked and with over 50 boards they are weighty indeed and I have never suffered from warping- wonder how the SK boards will fare after 10 years never mind 30 ?

 

[SSlunt]

(Worst case scenario will scan the maps myself)
I will reprint the boards on a high resolution printer and experiment on different types of supports.

It doesn't look like a lot of work, but I will tell you in few days

Do yourself a favor. If you do scan and print - Enlarge the hexes first. Go to at least a HASL size 1"

 

[Jazz]

Do yourself a favor. If you do scan and print - Enlarge the hexes first. Go to at least a HASL size 1"

...which 1" hexes translates to ~1.33 x.

 

[Kijug]

We used a large piece of plexiglass for the Red Barricades mapsheets. It worked very well and has the added benefit of protecting the maps from spills, FOBA and blood.

I've lost too many times playing with plexiglass. It makes a shadow under a stack and I keep thinking stacks are "one higher" than they actually are. I have found it very distracting. I just bend mine the other way until they lay flat. Seems to work well.

 

[Actionjick]

I've lost too many times playing with plexiglass. It makes a shadow under a stack and I keep thinking stacks are "one higher" than they actually are. I have found it very distracting. I just bend mine the other way until they lay flat. Seems to work well.

Interesting viewpoint.

 

[von Marwitz]

I've lost too many times playing with plexiglass. It makes a shadow under a stack and I keep thinking stacks are "one higher" than they actually are. I have found it very distracting. I just bend mine the other way until they lay flat. Seems to work well.

Amen to that. Plexiglass can also be a PITA when trying to string a close LOS. Not to mention the extra glare.

I use unprotected, unlaminated SK-style boards or VASL printouts in case of terrain alterations.
Should the improbable happen and an unprotected board be "attritioned" to being unplayable or fall victim to an immediate ghastly fate, I'll use a spare and move on.

von Marwitz

 

[Fubar Awol]

Here is my solution:

My Super-cool upgrade for all three Starter kits + Beyond the Beaches | Advanced Squad Leader: Starter Kit #1

A few years ago, I got back into ASL and my "inner pimper" took over. I collected EVERYTHING and pimped it to the max. One of my "innovations" was scanning and up-sizing the maps by 150%. And believe it or not, I did it for ALL the Maps! I'

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