Rounded corners and tweezers

Yuri0352

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Depth: about 13/16ths of an inch--you merely want it deep enough to hold the counter clipper securely. I think I traced the outline of the lower part, but made the initial cutout a tinge smaller, then used a sanding cylinder on the Dremel to widen it to size, testing the fit every few moments.

The cutting surface on my rig is a little higher than the top of the 2x6. And the 2x6 sits comfortably in my lap or on one leg.
Thanks for the reply, Bill.

This is a very intriguing approach to high volume clipping, and since I'm pondering/procrastinating the clipping of my Mannerheim and Hakkaa Paalle counters, I think I may just dig through my lumber pile and construct one of these.
 

Actionjick

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Depth: about 13/16ths of an inch--you merely want it deep enough to hold the counter clipper securely. I think I traced the outline of the lower part, but made the initial cutout a tinge smaller, then used a sanding cylinder on the Dremel to widen it to size, testing the fit every few moments.

The cutting surface on my rig is a little higher than the top of the 2x6. And the 2x6 sits comfortably in my lap or on one leg.
Dude if you need a side gig this may be it. Just sayin'. As one who has to deal with mechanical stuff on a daily basis I very much appreciate your work. Well done and good gunnin to you when you aren't clippin'.
 

Actionjick

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And a big +1 on item (2)... I put the packing tape over the screw holes immediately before using the cutter and I have not had any issues with damage to any of the 1000+ counters which I have clipped. I forgot to mention this in an earlier post, the tape is IMO an essential modification.

Bill, how deep did you carve out the depression for the cutter? Is the wood surface flush with the flat metal cutting surface on the cutter? It's a bit hard to tell from the photograph.
It really is very clever. If you make one please post some pictures.
 

Actionjick

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Thanks for the reply, Bill.

This is a very intriguing approach to high volume clipping, and since I'm pondering/procrastinating the clipping of my Mannerheim and Hakkaa Paalle counters, I think I may just dig through my lumber pile and construct one of these.
Olli needs to see this. IIRC he was out of clippin' action for a while with I believe his wrist. This could add decades onto his clippin career.
 

Actionjick

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I do three things when using my Oregon clipper to make it go more smoothly:

(1) I used a large drill and a chisel and dremel to cut out a socket in a short piece of 2x6. Now I don't have to squeeze, I just press down with the heel of my hand: it's easier on the finger joints.
View attachment 31642
View attachment 31643

(2) I use heavy-duty clear packing tape and put it on the flat metal part of the cutting plate. Now the counters slide in more smoothly and don't get caught in the two screw holes, and it's less wear and tear on my skin. Eventually the piece of tape wears through, and I just peel off the old piece and put on a new piece.

(3) I use this protector on my thumb (Lee Tippi Grips Large Finger Pad): This protects my skin from getting torn up after half a counter sheet.
View attachment 31644
Can you do a similar thing for the nail clipper Luddites out there?😆
 

Bill Kohler

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I used a hole saw kit (as you probably could guess from the pictures), much like this one from Harbor Freight for $10:
31646
And maybe some spade bits for the smaller circles.

Then a hammer and chisel to knock off the cylinders and to do a rough smooth on the sides.

And finally a Dremel with a sanding drum:
31647

Frankly, I was a little surprised it worked so well.
 
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Actionjick

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I used a hole saw kit like this one from Harbor Freight for $10, as you probably could guess from the pictures:
View attachment 31646
And maybe some spade bits for the smaller circles.
I asked coworker once to hand me the David Spade bit. He started laughing and the tenant goes " did he say the David Spade bit?"
 
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