Oregon Laminations All Metal 2.5 mm Corner Cutter

[olli]

there is also
So the real design flaw isn't so much the plastic part, which is likely plenty strong enough to handle the leverage required to cut our cardboard counters endlessly, but rather that the handles do not have a proper stop. The result is that an arbitrarily high load can be applied to the plastic part when the handles are squeezed past the point required to cut the counter. The long term solution to prevent it breaking is what @von Marwitz posted - put in some sort of stop to prevent the handles traveling past the point required for cutting. That will keep the plastic part that broke from being subjected to high loads. I used a d6 for my stop:

View attachment 24569

Sorry to hear yours broke! Hopefully with a handle stop your second copy will last a lifetime.

The material that they are made out of was changed around 6-7 years ago to a lighter weaker material , this has been posted over and over on so many threads and forums, hence why they break . The Chinese manufacturer said this to Oregon several years back. You also have to remember that these clippers were not designed for High useage for Wargames counters. Hence the breakages. Yes the spacer added helps a lot but also you should also after doing around 30-40 counters turn them on the side and tap with the heal of your hand to dislodge the “chads” from building up and causing over pressure and breakages . I think I am safe in saying all this on the ASL forums for obvious reasons .

 

[DVexile]

Yes the spacer added helps a lot but also you should also after doing around 30-40 counters turn them on the side and tap with the heal of your hand to dislodge the “chads” from building up and causing over pressure and breakages.

Good point! The goal is to make sure the plastic part is only bearing the load of cutting the counter and nothing else. The way the handle is designed you can keep applying force once the cutting dies have fully mated and that puts enormous stress on the plastic part that breaks (way, way, way more than clipping a counter does). That's what putting a stopper helps with. But as you point out, if the cutting dies stop earlier because of built up chads then once again you can start inadvertently apply way too much force again (i.e. force beyond that needed to cut the counter).

The original stronger plastic of course lasts longer, but again the handle is just designed improperly and the stronger plastic was just masking that fundamental design flaw.

 

[Yuri0352]

Yes the spacer added helps a lot but also you should also after doing around 30-40 counters turn them on the side and tap with the heal of your hand to dislodge the “chads” from building up and causing over pressure and breakages .

He's absolutely right about clearing out the accumulated counter debris. I do this as well, usually no more than half a counter sheet without tapping out the 'chads'. A very small amount of silicone lubricant on the 2 round steel posts and the internal hinge is also a good idea after completing a job. Be sure to carefully wipe off any excess lubricant, and make sure that the steel cutting surface remains dry. Under no circumstances should you lube the cutter with any sort of penetrating lubricant such as Break Free, etc.

 

[olli]

Good point! The goal is to make sure the plastic part is only bearing the load of cutting the counter and nothing else. The way the handle is designed you can keep applying force once the cutting dies have fully mated and that puts enormous stress on the plastic part that breaks (way, way, way more than clipping a counter does). That's what putting a stopper helps with. But as you point out, if the cutting dies stop earlier because of built up chads then once again you can start inadvertently apply way too much force again (i.e. force beyond that needed to cut the counter).

The original stronger plastic of course lasts longer, but again the handle is just designed improperly and the stronger plastic was just masking that fundamental design flaw.

On my broken newer 2.5 I replaced the centre portion with a plate of 6mm aluminium thus making stronger by a mile than even the original

 

[DVexile]

On my broken newer 2.5 I replaced the centre portion with a plate of 6mm aluminium thus making stronger by a mile than even the original

Nice! Hoping mine doesn’t break, but if it ever does something like that would be my plan as well.

Give much of the expense is probably in the metal cutting dies and assembly cost it seems dumb to have tried any sort of cost reduction in the one critical plastic part!

 

[Stewart]

Have both the all metal and the Deluxe 2.5 mm corner cutters.

The "Deluxe" completely broke down before clipping 2,000 counters - bummer!

Now, using the all metal 2.5 mm cutter, I cannot get the nice, rounded edges I got with the so-called "Deluxe" model. Chopping off sides at worst, and, at best, getting clipped corners that look, well, ugly.

Any suggestions on technique-improvement will be most appreciated!.

When depressing the Device, ANY resistence you should pull back. you are trying to cut half the counter.
Thumb push at the side usually brings great results.
Start practicing with all of your utility counters...get used to the technique and you are good to go. 5/8" counters I use the 3mm and NEVER any issues.
2.5mm cut is a bit more finesse.
But the metal cutter won't break on you like the cheap plastic ones. I'm not even sure what the cost is now of those.. the metal ones used to be $25.