Hi Chris, I've done all sorts of combinations of single re-dos, set-up/teardowns and strictly no reversions. On more than a few occasions I have got tired of how things were going and speed run through the remaining turns being reckless about Sniper, B#, Duds. Other times I have done a mulligan or two per side because a critical B11 weapon breaks and 'spoils' the run for me. I still take note of such events as they teach me not to rely too much on brittle items and make me think how I can allow for that in more 'serious' playings.
For HIP items I use pairs of unused nationality "?" counters. Let us say I am doing German vs Soviet with 2 hidden Soviet guns. I would pick the first 12 (A-L) British and Japanese 5/8" counters. Dividing into 2 matching sets of 6 (A-F, G-L) of British and Japanese, the Japanese go into a cup, the Japanese are drawn one by one, covered by any of British and placed where I would think of putting a HIP gun. The end result is 12 pairs of British over Japanese counters, the British visible, the Japanese hidden and unknown. When a suitable target appears, remove the British counter and reveal the Japanese one. If it's "A" or "G" then it's a gun which is fired and placed according to the normal HIP rules A12.34. I often use 6 possible locations per gun, but any number > 1 can be used, it's not dr/DR based. Indeed if you wish you could have, say, 8 pairs and put down 6 pairs each in a different location and 2 pairs in one further location if you felt that that last location is one you would most likely pick in a 'real' game. In that case if either of the two unknown Japanese "?" are "A" then it's a gun. As long as the number of possible locations swamp the highest number of 'chances' in any one location by a factor of roughly 3+, then I feel it's sufficiently randomised and unpredictable.
